A Hong Kong Starbucks Goes Time-Traveling

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Julie Makinen A Starbucks is a Starbucks is a Starbucks. This corporate consistency can be comforting: a cookie-cutter caffeine oasis for a weary road-warrior. But seeing that green siren logo 7,000 miles from home can also be dejecting — more proof of the homogenizing force of globalization. Perhaps increasingly sensitive to this soulless sameness, Starbucks is experimenting with a little local-flavor makeover at one of its Hong Kong outlets (13 Duddell Street, Central; 852-2523-5685). The company handed the design reins over to the folks at the popular home furnishing store Goods of Desire, who outfitted the rear half of the coffee shop in the style of a Bing Sutt. What’s a Bing Sutt? The Cantonese terms translates literally as “Ice Room.” But as any old Hong Kong hand can tell you, it refers to the city’s 1950s and ’60s-era coffee houses — places with tiled walls and laminate booths where neighbors swapped gossip or watched TV while enjoying tea, coffee, pastries and Western refreshments like ice cream and soda pop. These inexpensive hangouts have largely disappeared amid rapid redevelopment, changing tastes and the rise of chains like Starbucks itself (which now has more than 100 shops in Hong Kong). The nostalgic concept is attracting attention: In the span of 30 minutes on a recent Saturday morning, at least six customers came in to snap photos of the Bing Sutt section even before ordering their grande frappucinos and venti vanilla lattes. Starbucks has added some special Bing Sutt items to its menu at this store. Try a pineapple bun with thick-cut butter, a coffee cocktail bun or an egg tart with coffee-flavored crust. (A sampler plate of all three treats is 34 Hong Kong dollars, about $4.39). If Starbucks’ approximation of a Bing Sutt whets your appetite for the real thing, pop over to China Restaurant (1077A Canton Road, Mong Kok; 852-2392-7895; English menus are available). Established in the 1960s, this typical Bing Sutt offers bargain breakfast sets — 22 Hong Kong dollars gets you coffee or tea, plus buttered toast, two eggs, and a bowl of macaroni with a slice of ham on top. Or try a refreshingly sweet pineapple ice for 15 Hong Kong dollars. Comments Please login to post comments or replies.